Michelin Star Lunch at Onyx

IMG_3879Onyx Restaurant in Budapest is the only fancy restaurant I ate at this trip. You may remember I posted this video from their site before I left.  One of the first and few Michelin starred restaurants in Budapest it offers a very different dining experience to what is on offer all over the streets of Budapest.  At $30 for a 3 course ++ lunch it was to much of  a deal to turn down.

This is not a review by any means – one person going to a restaurant once is just an impression.  I was greeted at the doorway by a friendly young who, even though I was early said my table was waiting and actually gave me a choice of where to sit. I picked a secluded corner where I could snap pictures, hopefully unnoticed.  IMG_3871The pace of service is very deliberate.  The servers all wear white gloves.  It seemed to take a while before I got my menu, as a solo diner I like to have something to hold onto and contemplate given I didn’t have a dining companion.  When the menu was presented I was asked what I wanted to drink. I had chosen to be a good boy and just had sparkling water.   There was an extensive list of wines by the glass suggested for each dish on the tasting menu.

The room was hushed and luxe. Christofle silverware, fine linen tablecloths and beautiful cut crystal water glasses.  The bread basked was beautiful and filled with options. IMG_3870Just the bread alone  is a culinary work of art.  A vast selection of small buns often riffs on traditional flavors; one had dill and another was made from smoked paprika and salt. Served with room temperature butter.  I hate it when you get butter that is so cold it doesn’t spread so this was great. With the shrimp and pea soup in shellfish broth came with a small amuse bouche which was a riff on Vietnamese summer rolls, a rice noodle filled with pickled crunchy vegetables. IMG_3873IMG_3872When I asked the waiter where the shrimp were sourced from he didn’t know and immediately went to the kitchen to ask: Argentina by way of the Vienna market.

My main course as an odd combination of a kind of local Trout and finely sliced rutabaga topped with a soft-boiled quail egg and trout roe enveloped in a creamy foam.IMG_3874 IMG_3875IMG_3876The presentation of all the dishes was beautiful.  The lunch menu also included several dishes from the dinner menu for a supplement.

Dessert I thought was going to be a simple piece of savarin brillat cheese, but instead it was a slice of cheese with salted almond ice cream and a traditional cake that was soft with a slight caramelized flavor and what I believe was an apricot glaze.  The concept was a kind of deconstructed “dessert” cheese course so the salted nuts, chutney and bread you would serve with a cheese course took on a different form.  Not one that I thought was altogether successful, but it didn’t stop me from eating it all up.IMG_3880 With the check was presented a small plate of sweets.IMG_3881All in all a skillfully executed, sophisticated luncheon that was a bargain for the price.  I love the seasonal and local aspects to each dish.  The room itself is a bit Russian oligarch meets the real housewives of Atlanta for me, but certainly the over all effect is one of over the top luxury and if you are in Budapest it is a must do while you are there.

15 % gratuity is included in the bill but an extra 5% for these hard working waiters is a nice gesture and makes it the 20% you’d pay in NYC anyway.IMG_3865

About urbanfoodguy

I'm a self taught cook with a dedication to buying and eating food that is as humanely and sustainably raised as possible. Which is why in addition to recipes you will see a lot of environmental/political reporting here. I started cooking when I was about 6, it's something I always loved to do. Watching Graham Kerr - aka "The Galloping Gourmet" - was what got me started and I have never really looked back. Over the years I've been a private chef, a caterer, and a food stylist for magazines such as Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, Real Simple, Oprah, Martha Stewart's Everyday Food and many more. I've also worked in the prep kitchen for the Food Network on the Bobby Flay and Paula Deen shows. Now I work at home in my kitchen sharing with you here recipes that I create or that other people have created that inspire me and I think you will like. I love my neighborhood (the Lower East Side of Manhattan) and I love to travel. Because NYC is such a big place I tend to focus mostly on my 'hood and the ones that are close by: The East Village, Bowery, Chinatown and Williamsburg. My love of travel has no limits really, I'm always ready to get on a plane. I was lucky enough to have a business for many years that allowed me to spend a lot of time in South East Asia. These days I've been spending time in Mexico, Germany, Canada and the West Coast of the U.S., but check back you never know where I might end up. I do consulting, cooking classes, and freelance lifestyle writing so if you are interested please send me a note: urbanfoodguy@gmail.com
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2 Responses to Michelin Star Lunch at Onyx

  1. costumelady says:

    i loved that video too, so fun to watch! yes russian + housewives interior, perfect description. love you! xo

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