The Modiano Market in Thessaloniki

IMG_0160Come stroll with me through Modiano, the central market of Thessaloniki….you might want to pour yourself a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, because even after hours of editing it was impossible for me not to share with you the vastness of this amazing market…IMG_0099People often refer to Modiano as a fish market or when you ask how to find it say things like: you can’t miss it for the smell of fish . Sure they sell fish in all its forms from fresh to salted to smoked to frozen, but this market is about so much more than just it’s amazing fish selection, come I’ll show you…IMG_0098IMG_0100IMG_0097IMG_0096IMG_0089IMG_0113IMG_0183IMG_0182One of the things I’ve noticed on menus here is that when a fish on the menu was previously frozen they always tell you, I guess because the assumption is in this port town all fish should be fresh.  IMG_0180The meat vendors were also very well represented I’d say there were almost as many as the fish vendors and that’s a lot of vendors addition to many cuts of meat a lot of liver, heart and other offal is for sale.IMG_0104IMG_0192IMG_0116IMG_0200


IMG_0110IMG_0107IMG_0140IMG_0106Feta and Olives, Greek Staples, on display in a dizzying variety.IMG_0201


IMG_0179Then were was everything else amazing fruit, in all it’s many forms: fresh, dried, in sugar syrup….vegetables, eggs, cook wear, medicinal herbs, pepper grinders from Turkey and Ouzo in such variety it was mind boggling.IMG_0134







IMG_0162     IMG_0131IMG_0129IMG_0125              IMG_0154IMG_0156IMG_0158And if markets aren’t your thing or you have brought along a friend who was less than enthusiastic about your market mania, you can stop into any number of tavernas, cafes and bars that are tucked into all the side streets around Modiano.  

The first thing I do when I visit a city is go the market – for me it says so much about the life and cultural of the city and Modiano is a must see for anybody interested in Greek food and culture.

About urbanfoodguy

I'm a self taught cook with a dedication to buying and eating food that is as humanely and sustainably raised as possible. Which is why in addition to recipes you will see a lot of environmental/political reporting here. I started cooking when I was about 6, it's something I always loved to do. Watching Graham Kerr - aka "The Galloping Gourmet" - was what got me started and I have never really looked back. Over the years I've been a private chef, a caterer, and a food stylist for magazines such as Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, Real Simple, Oprah, Martha Stewart's Everyday Food and many more. I've also worked in the prep kitchen for the Food Network on the Bobby Flay and Paula Deen shows. Now I work at home in my kitchen sharing with you here recipes that I create or that other people have created that inspire me and I think you will like. I love my neighborhood (the Lower East Side of Manhattan) and I love to travel. Because NYC is such a big place I tend to focus mostly on my 'hood and the ones that are close by: The East Village, Bowery, Chinatown and Williamsburg. My love of travel has no limits really, I'm always ready to get on a plane. I was lucky enough to have a business for many years that allowed me to spend a lot of time in South East Asia. These days I've been spending time in Mexico, Germany, Canada and the West Coast of the U.S., but check back you never know where I might end up. I do consulting, cooking classes, and freelance lifestyle writing so if you are interested please send me a note:
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2 Responses to The Modiano Market in Thessaloniki

  1. cbcreates says:

    Wow-weee. What an amazing and exhaustive market tour. Interesting how many more grape varieties there are, and not uniformly perfect, the golden ones look interesting. Also beautiful quince. Bet you were wishing you had a stove to go back to. I’d be crisp-frying those little fish in a vat of olive oil to serve with quick-roasted olives & grapes while sipping inexpensive Ouzo–the bottle with the naked kouros caught my eye.

    • urbanfoodguy says:

      Indeed it was all I could do from stopping myself from buying bags and bags of groceries and stopping strangers on the street to see if I could use their kitchen! Oh and Chris I went back to Panellinion and the cheese on the tomato salad is not feta, it’s “mizithra” cheese – a simple goat or ewes milk “fresh” cheese that is often used in baking – it’s considered a sweet cheese but there is also a “sour version which I think is just aged…that salad was just as good the second time round – apparently any produce from Santorini is highly prized.

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